In the not-so distant past, the idea of a gourmet hot dog would have got you laughed out of the room. Hot dogs were for backyard barbecues and a vessel for Stadium Mustard at Indians games. Then, a funny thing happened. White tablecloths largely disappeared from restaurant scapes. Service staff began wearing casual attire, not penguin costumes. Beer lists took precedent over wine lists. Diners made places like Melt Bar and Grilled, who sling frighteningly caloric and subsequently deliriously delicious grilled cheeses, among the more popular eateries in Northeast Ohio. 

We want something different, though not gimmicky. We want taste, without the big bill. We want options, but with restraint. We want casual without being sloppy. We want fun. Apparently, we wanted Happy Dog. 

The locale has retained its weathered Cleveland-bar charm, thanks to a judicious makeover from Eric Williams, who created another one of the city's best restaurants, Momocho. The large ovoid bar is a great place to ketchup (har har) with friends, and the liberally wood-paneled space is dotted with beer and music-related imagery that speaks to the low-key appeal. The well-inked staff are friendly, and regular live music (Bill Fox seems to like it here) keeps things extra lively. That said, whomever is creating the playlist at Happy Dog should email me, because we could be good friends, I think. On two visits,  The Undertones, Buzzcocks, The Saints, Avail, Rolling Stones and David Bowie were among the bands that provided wonderful background entertainment. 

It's understandable why the dog is so happy here: The formidable Chicago-style, 100% beef, 1/4-pound wiener is griddle-cooked on a flat top and stuck into a poppy seed bun, with 50 toppings to choose from. Yes, 50. The "traditional" condiments include two types of ketchup (house and chipotle), four types of mustard (yellow, Dijon, whole grain and black truffle honey), two types of chili (chorizo and garbanzo bean) and three types of cheese (Tillamook cheddar, smoked gouda and Cheez Whiz). Brazilian chimichurri, Thai chile and garlic sauce, Oaxacan red chile and chocolate mole, Joe's Italian giardiniera, Korean kim chee and creole remoulade are among the more exotic toppings. Half the fun is choosing what you want, then quite literally filling in corresponding circles on a checklist menu. If only taking the SATs were this interesting. 

On my most recent visit, I opted for warm pineapple-ginger-currant chutney (the flavor profile seemed concurrent with the holiday season) and caramelized onions on my dog (pictured). The intense savoriness of the dog was nicely complemented by the sweetness of the onions and chutney, which was delightfully piquant. I'll be ordering this combo again. And again. My buddy had his dog with bacon, fried egg, Caribbean slaw, smoked gouda and garbanzo bean chili. Judging by its relatively short stay on his plate, I'd say it was a hit, if a hilariously  messy one. Hot dogs are $5, inclusive of toppings. Food is served all week until 2 am, and lunch service starts at 11 am on Fridays. Awesome. 

What are Williams' favorite combos? He has two: creole remoulade, smoked gouda, bacon-spiked southern style greens and a fried egg; and an "Asian dog", topped with Thai chile and garlic sauce, bok choy cola stir fry and housemade kim chee.

Tater tots (think cafeteria classic) and french fries are the only sides, and that makes sense. There are 19 free dipping sauces for each, and 9 sides that will tack a whopping extra $1 to your bill. (The combo of chorizo chili and Tillamook cheddar cheese makes for top-notch chili-cheese fries, well worth the extra $2.)  A full bar is available, though, which always has the potential to mark up a tab. So, cheers to Cleveland for having spoken, and thank you to Williams and co. for listening.